Goodbye

 In 1934, Aldous Huxley apparently wrote, “If the world had any ends, [Belize] would certainly be one of them.  It is not on the way from anywhere to anywhere else.  It has no strategic value.  It is all but uninhabited.”  I wonder how long Huxley stayed in Belize.  True, what was then British Honduras didn’t attract much global attention; nor had they discovered oil in Belize, as they have in recent times.  But I wonder had Huxley stayed longer, would he have said something different about this country, focused on some other aspect. 

What I have found, during my three months here, is a country filled not only with an abundance of natural beauty but also warm, genuine and robust people who know how to “chillax,” as the locals like to say.  I dislike generalizations and of course there are always exceptions to the rule, but I think many would agree with me when I say that Belizeans know how to be patient, to not be rushed, to take life easy and to enjoy life just by being, rather than doing.  I’ve sensed that progress here isn’t measured by accomplishments or efficiencies but, rather, by relationships.  One doesn’t make friends here by asking lots of questions; one makes friends here by just being with the other person.  Very few things are rushed.  Scenery is enjoyed. 

It’s been a hard but necessary lesson for me.  I tend to make lists, enjoy checking things off, and thrive on the ability to make things happen, to make each minute count (likely a carryover from my days accounting for every tenths of an hour).  I’ve often gotten frustrated at what I view as inefficiencies here, but strangely, when I look around, no one seems to be bothered but me.  Not to say that improvements can’t be made, and certainly there are many needs in this developing country, but there is value in taking things slow and just being. 

I’m reminded of the verse in Psalms 46 that says, “Be still and know that I am God.”   Indeed, when I’ve done nothing but  just stare at the emerald green hills on the Hummingbird Highway, or the brilliant aquamarine water off the northern cayes, it’s been hard not to think that there is an Almighty Creator of the universe in full control.  And when I’ve been unproductive or bored out of my mind (imagine rain without end, no car, no shopping, no movie theatres no Starbucks,  and sometimes, no internet), I’ve come to a point where I just resign myself to being happy… just being.

I’m sad to say that this will be my final post.  I’m spending my final weeks here visiting friends, ringing in the new year with the Roaring Creek Church of the Nazarene, squeezing in a visit to Caye Caulker, preparing some more materials for Standard 5 and 6, saying goodbye to my awesome students (who surprised me on the last day of term with the best songs, cards and gifts ever!) and researching next steps for me back in the states.  As much as I crave the bug-free comforts of home, I will miss Belize and my new friends.  I won’t stay away too long, though– and hopefully I’ll bring some friends with me (especially those in the medical and teaching fields, hint hint). 

Thanks for reading, and see you soon!

Adventures in Belize

I don’t think I’ll ever forget my adventure here in Belize.  Some memorable moments:

- hitching a ride with a Rastafarian, listening to reggae, seated in the back on palm leaves;

- accidentally stepping on a gecko in the middle of the night (this might have hurt me more than it hurt him);

- investigating an abandoned, damaged truck on the side of the beautiful but dangerous Hummingbird Highway with my fellow teachers, praying that the missing occupants were ok;

- examining a student’s swollen arm from a fer-de-lance snake bite and, hours later, finding out it was only a “worm”;

- nearly losing my mind trying to identify (and stop) the deafening (and scary) noise  coming from the roof in the middle of the night– kind of like an electrical circuit shorting, along with vibrations– I’m told it was likely chicharras, or cicadas;

- using all my might to mash plaintains in a wooden mortar to make hudut, then enjoying it with a side of cucumber ginger juice and then ginger wine for dessert; and

- administering the Infant 1 exams in Spanish and getting the darnedest answers (i.e., “What do you use your eyes for?”  “To watch telenovelas.”  “True or false- our parents work hard to give us food.”  “Right now my parents have no work but they will work soon to give me food.”   Much work here is seasonal, in the citrus industry).

This one's for you, J! Thanks!

Hard at work. Or are they?

An overdue post

So it’s been a while since I’ve posted; as school term comes to a close, I’ve been extremely busy– helping prepare and administer exams, participating in Christmas fundraisers and acitivities, and assisting the princpal with some

The ice cream bean, or paterna. The soft white flesh around the beans tastes nice.

documents for a new association he is creating.  Hopefully, the organization will get the attention of the Ministry of Education and initiate some much-needed changes for the rural schools.

I’ve also gotten the know some Peace Corps volunteers over the last few weeks.  They come from various states, backgrounds and skillsets.  One is a former law firm partner.  It’s been extremely valuable talking with her about the law and our experiences here, as we both try to figure out what next steps to take after Belize.  I’m thankful to them for their companionship, as they’re the only Americans that I know here, and it sure is nice to talk with fellow Americans once in a while.  Especially over pizza and beer.

Speaking of being thankful, though I was unable to have my traditional turkey and butternut squash soup and green bean and mashed potatoes and cranberry sauce and kimchee dinner (was able to consume copious amounts of cranberry sauce, though), I was able to thank God for all the blessings here and in my life.  Though too long to list, I’m going to mention a few things here:

- DEET, yuk-eh-jang bowls, fried chicken, my mom’s insistence that I bring certain items, the love and prayers of  friends and family, friendships here, books, the Bible, my education, my former Spanish teachers, A/C, a washer/dryer, gifts of grace, my health, and opportunities to share my skills, passion and love.   Without these, both here and abroad, I don’t know where I’d be (or what condition I’d be in). 

“Every good and perfect gift is from above, coming down from the Father of the heavenly lights, who does not change like shifting shadows.”  James 1:17

Hope you had a wonderful, thankful Thanksgiving as well.

Stories

Lately, I’m helping the Standard 5 and Standard 6 students with story-writing, a major component of their high school entrance exam.  It’s funny how they love telling stories outside (and inside) class, yet the moment I ask them to share orally or in writing, they don’t have three sentences to share.  I guess many people are like that– we all have fascinating stories but when we’re put on the spot, we clam up.  Especially in such a personal and vulnerable pursuit like writing.  I recall a conversation with a friend in which he said that he could never be a fiction writer because he’d have to reveal so much of himself, which was scary, he said.

Funny though, today it occurred to me that sometimes we hear the the most intense, honest and personal stories from people whom we barely know.  Like today– I met someone for the first time, and as we sat on a veranda on a quiet, slightly-breezy, lazy afternoon, she started telling me about the tragedies she’s had in her life … all within ten minutes of our first meeting.  She had that sad, faraway look in her eyes, and unsure whether my comments and questions were helping her emotional state, I changed the subject to the opening of a local restaurant. 

After I left, I wondered why she would open up to me, a complete stranger, and it occurred to me that this wasn’t the first time in my travels (here or elsewhere) that I heard deeply personal, some painful, stories from people I had just met.  I don’t think it’s got anything to do with me, the fact that I’ve been privy to these unsolicited, personal stories– rather, I think it’s the fact that I am a complete stranger, or a mere acquaintance from someplace else, disconnected from the storyteller’s own life and location, that invites them to open up.  No judgment, no fear of being found out?  I wondered if the group of boisterous friends who had met with her prior to our meeting knew this story of hers.  I wondered if she felt comfortable enough with that circle to share so freely her story as she had with me, a complete stranger.  Is there such a thing as security in strangers?

Update

 

Holly and I hosted a quesadilla and pineapple fried rice party for the teachers.

Hi all.  So it seems my last written entry caused a bit of concern among some readers, when I wrote that my “honeymoon with Belize” was over.  To clarify and to allay those concerns, I wanted to write that just because the honeymoon is over doesn’t mean that I don’t enjoy being here.  It’s been exciting and eye-opening to see the differences (as well as the similarities) and to serve in an environment totally foreign to me in many ways.  I think the end of the honeymoon period merely means that I take on a new perspective, that I see the challenges for what they are, and begin the process of evaluating them and figuring out what I can do.  I imagine this is a natural, and necessary, part of the process.  In any case, thank you for all your emails, thoughts and prayers.

The grounds at Chaa Creek, near San Ignacio.

So this past week has seen a whirlwind of activity.  Earlier this week, Holly moved back to the states (miss you, Holly!; check out her blog at http://hollyfooshee.blogspot.com), and we hosted some dinners before her departure.  Tuesday was Cultural Day at school, Wednesday was a national holiday– Garifuna Settlement Day– and I finally made it to the beach, Thursday I went to book club and Friday was Children’s Day (no classes, but various outdoor games and acitivities for the children at school). 

Some more details of the week’s activities: on Wednesday, St. Margaret’s celebrated Cultural Day.  Teachers and students prepared various displays, foods, and presentations to showcase some of the many different cultures of Belize.  While there is a certain culture associated with the whole of Belize (for example, the laid back attitude and slow pace of life– Belizean time or belizey livin’), Belize is really made up of a variety of very distinct peoples and cultures.  The approximately 300,000 people in Belize consist of Mestizos (mixture of Spanish and Indian), Creole (descendants of African slaves and early European settlers), Mayan, Garifuna (descendants of African slaves and Indian natives of the Carribean island St. Vincent), East Indians (descended from indentured servants brought over from India to work on the sugar plantations), Chinese (who emigrated more recently, many of them successful grocery store and restaurant owners here) and the Mennonites (who speak an archaic German dialect and who I must thank for their awesome cheese and bread products here).  Though I can’t say that racial tensions are totally absent here (I’ve been the target of a few racial remarks here, as I’m mistaken for a Chinese Belizean), I have noticed that, for the most part, Belizeans are proud of their racial diversity and hold a wide appreciation of their various cultures.  Over quesadillas, pupusas and pineapple fried rice (the last, which I made, and which the teachers doused with guacamole, salsa casena and Marie Sharp’s hot sauce), for example, the teachers at one of our gatherings, talked at length about the food and customs of their respective cultures.  Cultural Day was another example of the locals’ appreciation and celebration of the unique mix of peoples here. 

On Wednesday, I experienced Garifuna culture at its best, as one of the teachers and I headed south (via bus, and private cars, courtesy of a Rastafarian and a Brazilian soccer player) to celebrate Garifuna Settlement Day, the holiday commemorating the arrival of the Black Caribs to Belize.  First, we visited the coastal village of Hopkins, where I got my first taste of Belizean’s beautiful beaches.  Pristine, untouched natural beauty– right next to and enjoyed by villagers living in old, small cement houses.  It was refreshing for me, especially as a Californian, to see that not all gorgeous beachfront property is occupied by multimillion dollar homes.  But still a bit strange, surreal in fact. 

In Hopkins I met many of the teacher’s family members and friends, and got to partake in the holiday festivities.  The previous day I had sampled some cassava bread and cassava cake (aka “plastic cake” because of its appearance, not its taste); on Garifuna Settlement Day I had fried fish and hudut for lunch.  Hudut, fish and plaintains cooked in coconut milk, was delicious; unfortunately, I ate my lunch faster than I took pictures, but to be frank, hudut tastes so much better than it looks, in my opinion.  After lunch, the drumming, dancing and singing began.  Girls and boys and adults dressed in traditional Garifuna clothing joined in the dancing, encircling the drummers.  It wasn’t a formal affair, and I could tell that there was little planning or organization to the activity, with the order and style of dance and music chosen spontaneously, but there was a fluidity and cameraderie of rhythms, sounds and people that tied everything together. 

From Hopins we travelled to Dangriga, the capital of Garifuna culture.  We got there just in time to enjoy the mid-day (or evening, in Belize speak) ocean breeze and sweet buns on the veranda of another old house overlooking the beach, and … just in time to shove, push and shout our way onto a public bus back to Belmopan, my temporary home. 

All the activity at school and beyond seems to have taken its toll on my body.  With a sore throat and a growing fever, I’m resigning myself to a day of rest.  Unfortunately, if it’s not bug bites or conjunctivitis here, it’s something else.  But I’m looking forward to the rest of the day filled with CNN, chicken soup, advil and movies (thanks DH). 

Until next time!

 

 

 

 

“But he knows the way that I take; when he has tested me, I will come forth as gold.”   

 Job 23:10

 

A howler monkey in the Belize zoo (which only holds animals that cannot fend for themselves in the wild).

So I’ve noticed that my honeymoon period with Belize has ended and I find myself increasingly frustrated at certain things here– the poor infrastructure and resulting inefficiencies (including a very casual attitude towards schedules and time commitments), or the lack of hygiene awareness and practices that keep my students malnourished, sick, smelly and distracted in class (imagine infected insect bites, open wounds, tooth decay, botfly infestations, etc).  I find myself wondering, “Why can’t they just do this, or why can’t they learn to … ?  Why doesn’t the government do this, or why won’t the people fight for … ?” 

I’m told that at the end of two weeks is when the honeymoon period ends– when visitors to a foreign land start noticing more differences that similarities.  Noticing similarities between two cultures is almost blissful and romantic.  Noting stark differences, especially with my Type A and U.S.-centric tendencies, is not as nice.  But I’m starting to ask myself what are the real needs here (as opposed to merely my personal preferences) and what can the communities here do given what they have, their limitations, and what can I do given those and my own limitations?  I doubt I’ll be able to answer all those questions by the time I leave, but for now, it’s almost freeing to realize that at least some of my frustrations may be unwarranted.

Good night.

Sharing a meal of tamales.

Happy Belated Halloween (and Election Day)!

 

Students (and a skeleton and parrot) wish you a Happy Halloween.

Class in session at a local high school.

Greetings from Belmopan!  The rains have subsided and the sun is out in full force once again.  School is in session– full speed ahead.  I’ve been extremely busy helping the Infant 1 class with a new English curriculum and creating lesson plans for two “Writing Composition” classes I’ve been tasked with, for the older students.  Also on the “to do” list is preparing for the Writing Workshops I’ll be leading Saturday mornings, starting this week (the beautiful cayes, which I’ve read and heard so much about, will just have to wait). 

Working at the local school has been both challenging and rewarding– challenging because despite the teachers’ desire to educate and the children’s willingness to learn, the lack of resources is frustrating.  So many things I’ve taken for granted in the states– for example, a safe, sound classroom facility– are lacking here.  When it rains, the thin wood-panelled classroom shakes and the rain beating on the tin roof makes it impossible to hear anything.  Even the most basic school supplies– paper and pencils– are in short supply, and the teachers must buy their own paper.  Time is another resource in critically short supply.  There is only one schoolbus to take the 120 or so students home every day, and that bus picks up the students (and teachers) as soon as classes end, so there is no opportunity for after-school help/instruction.  Hence the Saturday workshops.  Of course, there is the public bus system, but as Holly and I painfully (and patiently) learned this weekend, it’s not the most reliable mode of transport.  Fortunately for us, we were able to “hitch” a ride back home.  A very Belizean thing to do, I’m told.

Nevertheless, the teachers and students are amazing; they are resilient, enthusiastic and optimistic, and as exhausted as I am at the end of each day, I am happy to be working alongside them.  One thing I’ve noticed is that despite the hardships and frustrations here, the people definitely maintain their sense of humor.  Playful teasing, jokes, and giggles are doled out in abundance.

One subject of many chistes here is Obama, e.g., “Obama Osama …” Many Belizeans have their eyes glued to CNN, the overwhelming majority of them rooting for Obama.  Some locals like Obama because of the historical and social significance of having the first black American president.  Others have told me that Obama’s presidency will mean better relations between the U.S. and Central America.  I guess time will tell.  For now I just pray that the better man wins … and has the moral fortitude to go beyond mere campaign platitudes and the moral compass to know in which direction.

I will post photos of some local animals soon (when I can get to an internet cafe).  Hasta luego.

Rain, rain, go away

Courtesy of Holly, here’s a photo of us on the schoolbus.  The photo doesn’t capture the 115-or-so other persons on board.

School is still closed, unfortunately, due to the rains and flooding.  Today we accompanied the principal to St. Margaret’s and everything appeared to be in good order; however, many of the roads and bridges (taken by several students and teachers) to school are still under water.  Hopefully the waters will recede and the rains will cease for longer than a few hours.  One minute it is blindingly sunny, the next minute brings torrential rains.  You’d think that this would cool temperatures to a more comfortable level, but as one person described it, Belize becomes one giant steambath as soon as the sun re-emerges.

On our way to St. Margaret’s this morning, we got to enjoy this beautiful scenery along the Western Highway. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along the way we stopped by the home of our school cook.  There, I got to see two of my students, Camilla and Christian.  They don’t speak English, so I use my rudimentary Spanish to communicate with them … and the universal language of taking pictures.  Hand any child a camera and show them how to click, and– voila!– hours of amusement.  Christian took the photo of Camilla. 

While at St. Margaret’s, Lourdes, the principal’s spouse, shared with me her experience as a teacher and adminstrator in the Belizean school system.  She started out as a teacher-in-training at a remote rural school in the Cayo District.  During her two years there, she hiked up a mountain and waded across a river for an hour every day to get to school.  Despite the dense tropical vegetation  and mountainous terrain (and the fact that she couldn’t swim and almost drowned on multiple occasions), she described those years as the “best two years of [her] life.”  She turned down opportunities to work in Belize City, and is now vice principal of another school in the Cayo District. 

Being an administrator at a rural school certainly has its challenges.  Aside from teacher salaries, the rural schools get little to no funding for school repairs, supplies or amenities.  Teachers and administrators are forced to rely on tuition (i.e., a mere $10 BZ, or $5 US, per family) and money from their own pockets for the most basic school supplies.

The commitment and passion of teachers and administrators like Lourdes, no doubt, help keep the rural schools running.  It’s encouraging to see teachers discuss a new classroom strategy or concept with the other teachers on the bus ride in the mornings.  They don’t get much support or training from the government, so they rely on each other heavily.  All in all, a great day seeing that St. Margaret’s was ok, visiting with and getting to know some locals.

Tonight was my first “social” outing in Belize.  Holly and I joined a book club started my some folks at the Roaring Creek Church of the Nazarene.  An incredibly diverse group– we had a local newscaster, a missionary from the states, a woman from Belgium, a cosmetology student … even one elementary student.  So I will supplement my current reading list (Obama’s Dreams of My Father, Marcella Hazan’s Amarcord and 1, 2 Samuel) with Hannah Hurnard’s Hinds Feet in High Places and Redeeming Love by Francine Rivers.  The books look interesting, but I’m also looking forward to getting to know the other members.  Saturday the church is organizing relief efforts to help clean up some flooded homes, so I’ll see them again real soon.

Below are Lourdes and Juan, the principal’s children, with some new flowers to plant at their home.  Til next time!